Harishchandragad

Harischandragad is an ancient fort located in the Ahmednagar disctrict. Many trekkers have often deemed it as "The Dream Trek" and once you do it, you know why. Here are some of the things you can have a look at when you go there (source: Wikipedia):

Saptatirtha Pushkarni

To the east of the temple is a well-built lake called “Saptatirtha”. On its bank are temple-like constructions in which there are idols of Lord Vishnu. Recently these idols have been shifted in the caves near the temple of Harishchandreshwar. These days many trekkers have been responsible for the sad plight of this beautiful place, as they throw plastic wastes and other things in the pond. 7 years back the water was potable, and now it isn’t suitable even to swim.

Kedareshwar Cave. Local legend holds that when the fourth pillar breaks, the world will come to an end.

Kedareshwar Cave

Going rightwards of Harishchandreshwar temple, we come across a huge cave. This is the cave of Kedareshwar (see picture), in which there is a big Shivlinga, which is totally surrounded by water. The total height from its base is five feet, and the water is waist-deep. It is quite difficult to reach the Shivlinga because the water is ice-cold. There are sculptures carved out here. In monsoon it is not possible to reach this cave, as a huge stream flows across the way.

Konkan Kada (Konkan cliff)

The most interesting point on this fort is this cliff, which has always fascinated many people from many years. The cliff faces west and looks down upon the Konkan. From here, one can have a breathtaking view of the surrounding region and the setting sun. This cliff is not just vertical, it is an overhang, almost like a cobra's hood. It has been climbed many times. Sometimes a circular rainbow (the Brocken spectre phenomenon) can be seen from this point. It can be seen only when there is a bit of mist in the valley, and the sun is right behind the person facing the valley. One amazing phenomenon that can be observed at this place is the vertical cloud burst, in which the clouds nearing the cliff get sucked into the pit fall area below are thrown vertically into the sky reaching more than 50 feet (15 m). It creates a magical wall that is rising straight from the edge of the cliff without entering the landmass area. The fog show and hovering clouds below the cliff complement the season if one visits.

Taramati peak

Also known as Taramanchi. This is the topmost point on the fort (1429 meters). Leopards are seen in the forests beyond this peak. From here we can have a glimpse of the whole range of Naneghat and the forts near Murbad. From this Taramati point,we can have a glimpse of forts till Siddhagad near Bhimashankar in the south and Napta twin peaks,Ghodishep (865 meters),Ajoba (1375 meters),Kulang fort (1471 meters)in the north near the Kasara region

Caves on Harishchandragad

These caves are situated all over the fort. Many of these are situated at the foot of Taramati peak & are the place of accommodation. A few are near the temple, whereas some are near the citadel and some far away in the forests. A 30 feet (9.1 m) deep natural cave is on the northwestern side of the fort, to the right of Kokan Kada. Many other caves are still said to remain undiscovered.

Nageshwar temple near Khireshwar

This is a great antique construction, and diverse artistic works are seen on this. On the ceiling of the temple are beautiful carvings. The main attraction of the carvings here is the 1.5 m long sculpture of Lord Vishnu in the sleeping posture, popularly known as "sheshshayi Vishnu" in Marathi. It is rare and hence holds a lot of importance. There are a lot of legends told about this sculpture. There are caves near the temple.

Temple of Harishchandreshwar

This temple is marvelous example of the fine art of carving sculptures out of stones that prevailed in ancient India. It is about 16 m high from its base. Around this temple there a few caves & ancient water tanks. The river Mangal Ganga is said to originate from one of the tanks located close to the temple. The top of the temple resembles construction with the north-Indian temples. A similar temple is situated in Buddha-Gaya. Here we can see many tombs, in which a typical construction is seen. These are built by well-finished arranging stones one on top of the other. There are three main caves near the temple. The cisterns near the temple provide drinking water. A short distance away, another temple called Kashitirtha is located. The fascinating thing about this temple is that it has been carved out from a single huge rock. There are entrances from all four sides. On the main entrance there are sculptures of faces. These are faces of guards of the temple. On the left side of the entrance is a Devnagri inscription, which is about saint Changdev.

District -Ahmednagar

Height above mean sea level - 3963 feet (Temples and cave), 4695 feet (summit)
 

Base Village - Khireshwar

Duration of trek - 2 day.

Time to reach the top - 1 hour to the base village from Khubi Phata, 4 hours from base village to the top.

Water/Food Availability - Water is available on the top and along the way from streams and lakes in winter and monsoon.

 

Best season to visit - Winter, in the months of November, December and January.

Sights to visit - Nageshwar temple, caves with inscriptions, Taramati summit, Konkan kada offers a great view, Kedareshwar temple, Harishchandreshwar temple.

Difficulty Rating - Medium.

Endurance required - 5/5.

Shelter - Caves near the temple.

How to get there - Mumbai to Kalyan by local train, Kalyan to Khubi Phata by S. T. bus, Khubi Phata to Khireshwar is a 5-6 km walk.

Notes: 

• Konkan Kada is a must watch, do go during sunset and sunrise.
• It is said, that the first rays of the sun hit the Shivling in the Kedareshwar temple, so that is a must watch.
• There are two ways to the top, once you climb the rock patch. One goes left and through the citadel and skips the trek across the seven hills. The other one is the one which I have tried, you go right and follow the path up and down seven hills. Though you will miss the Citadel if you go through this path.
• There is ample accomodation on top, with 5-6 caves each having a capacity of atleast 10 people. Some caves can hold as many as 30. Caves are clean and well maintained.
• Water is available on top and on the way in streams during and post monsoon.
• Try to get to Konkan Kada during sunset.
• The trek starts at Khireshwar and its a 5-6 km walk from Khubi Phata to Khireshwar. There is motorable road from ahead of Khubi Phata going along the dam to Khireshwar. You might want to take that and skip the 6 km walk if you have a vehicle with you.
• The trek is marked with arrows right uptil the end, so hiring a guide isn't necessary.
• There is also a way from Pachnai village straight to the main temple on top, but I don't have more information on that. 
• Do not miss the Nageshwar temple, near Khireshwar.

Photos:

Khubi Phata

The base village near the horizon, as seen from Khubi Phata.

The trail starts from here.

Nageshwar temple.

Caves near Khireshwar.

First look: Harishchandragad.

Kedareshwar temple.

Looking down Konkan Kada.

Konkan Kada - towards the right.

Konkan Kada - to the left.

 

Shri Malanggad (Haji Malang)

Shri Malanggad or more popularly known as Haji Malang or Bawa Malang is located close to Kalyan. It is more popular for pilgrims who visit the dargah, but a little ahead lays a thrilling trek for enthusiasts.

Malangad is built on three levels. The lowest level is a plateau which is 1000 feet broad and 2500 feet long on which stands the Dargah of a Sufi saint - Haji Malang. At the other end of the plateau is the Panchi Pir which lies almost at the edge of the rock and is named after the five pirs who accompanied Haji Malang. This plateaus is called Pir Machi.

The next higher level is called the Sone Machi as it is the lower part of the fort. This is a projection of rock with is 70 feet broad and 100 feet long. It is shaped like an elephant trunk.


The highest level is the Citadel which is 200 yards long and 70 yards broad. This is the summit of the hill and has no fortifications. The water supply is from five cisterns at the top of the hill with a copper pipe to carry water to the lower levels.

District - Raigad

Height above mean sea level - 2596 feet.

 

Base Village - Vaishakhare is the nearest village. Trek starts a few kilometers ahead of Vaishakhare, where there is a divergence towards the hills.

Duration of trek - 1 day.

Time to reach the top - 2 and a half.

Water/Food Availability - Plenty of water throughout the way to the dargah. Above that carry water, where at the absolute summit there are water cisterns.

 

Best season to visit - Anytime except monsoon.

Sights to visit - Haji Malang dargah, fort remnants, balekilla.

Difficulty Rating - Easy till dargah and maachi, tough to climb the balekilla.

Endurance required - 4/5.

Shelter - None.

How to get there - Mumbai to Kalyan. Kalyan to Haji Malang via frequent buses and taxis/rickshaws.

Notes:

1. An absolute thriller of a trek, this one requires you to climb steps for the first hour and a half. Just before reaching the dargah take a right towards the hills, from where the real thrill for the trekkers starts.
2. On climbing further, you will reach a flight of steep steps that take you to a flat plateau also called Sone maachi. On the right is the way to the balekilla and to the left are a few remnants.
3. Reaching the balekilla requires you to cross a 14 foot gap, that is joined by two pieces of pipe. Though a little dangerous with exposed valley beneath you, it is absolutely worth doing it once!
4. The way ahead is also narrow and tricky in some parts, but the view from the top and the satisfaction of having completed the trek is beyond awesome.
5. The top has 4-5 large water cisterns and a structure which used to be a weapons storage building. 
6. The route of Malanggad consists of 3 dargahs or 3 salaami. The third being the famous Haji Malang.
7. Be careful of monkeys, do not show them food or valuables as they are known to open bags and/or snatch things from pockets and hands.
8. There is plenty to eat and drink all upto the dargah after which you need to be prepared for whatever you need.
9. Every morning around 11 o' clock, a man comes to the pipe section to tie and rope and help you cross. He charges Rs. 20 to help you cross to and fro. It is extremely dangerous to cross on your own, please DO NOT try it. 
10. There is no scope of getting lost. Steps get annoying, but be patient as the trek above is totally worth it.
11. It is also said that throwing a rock from the summit to the pinnacle on the south west side, makes your wish come true, if your stone reaches the pinnacle. Our tries were futile!
12. From the Balekilla (citadel) we can see Chanderi, Matheran range to the south, Kalyan city, Mahuli to the north and Mumbai (with part of sea)to the west.
13. DO NOT take people afraid of heights or exposed cliffs as most of the trek to the balekilla is along such type of route. 

Pictures:

The start.

The pinnacles as seen from the start.

The final dargah seen from halfway to the balekilla.

The chor darwaja to the maachi.

The imposing citadel summit.

See the steps to the right? That's what you have to take.

A part of balekilla trek.

My friend Chiru climbing one of the exposed areas.

One of the cisterns at the top.

The way to the maachi, take the steps on the left.

The pipe crossing. Easily the most thrilling part of the trek.

The cisterns at the top.

Naneghat

Naneghat is a mountain pass in the Malshej range near Junnar. It used to serve as a trade route during the Satvahana reign more than 2000 years ago, between Kalyan and Junnar. Naneghat is derived from 'Nane' meaning coin and 'ghat' meaning pass. It still has a 2000 year old toll collection Ranjan that was used during that time.

District - Junnar

Height above mean sea level - 2750 feet.

 

Base Village - Vaishakhare is the nearest village. Trek starts a few kilometers ahead of Vaishakhare, where there is a divergence towards the hills.

Duration of trek - 1 day.

Region - Malshej

Time to reach the top - 2 and a half.

Water/Food Availability - Water cisterns, village at the top.

 

Best season to visit - Anytime.

Sights to visit - Cave, old transcript, Old Ranjan for toll collection

Difficulty Rating - Easy.

Endurance required - 3/5.

Shelter - Cave at the top.

How to get there - Mumbai to Kalyan to Murbad via S. T. bus or share rickshaw - Murbad to Tokavade or take a direct bus to Vaishakhare or Nagar (Ahmednagar) and ask to get off at Naneghat.

Notes:

1. When taking a direct bus to Nagar, ask the conductor beforehand to stop at Naneghat as it is not a legitimate stop. Most conductors don't agree, but some do and stop in the middle of the road near the divergence known as Naneghat phata.
2. When trekking to Naneghat, follow the trail till you see the electric posts. If the trail ends, walk towards the electric tower and follow the trail below it to the top.
3. Keep your eyes on the rocks below as there are arrow marks frequently. If you take a trail and arrow marks stop, or if it looks like a water way, head back and find the arrows. We have been lost there a couple of times now but managed to reach the top anyway.
4. Naneghat is a mountain pass, so keep going towards the general direction of the pass to not lose your way.
5. Naneghat has a big cave that can accomodate 25 people easily! Shelter is not a problem here. Water cistern usually has clean water in monsoon and winter.
6. Be careful of monkey near the top.
7. Naneghat is the only trek yet in which we have spotted snakes every time we have went. Make enough noise while walking and be careful and you should be alright.
8. Naneghat is apparently going to go under construction and a direct road is going to be constructed from the Kalyan side. Trekking there will be prohibited then. Make sure you enjoy the trek once, before it gets destroyed.
9. The rock patch towards the top is especially beautiful and there is a Ranjan that is more than 2000 years old that was used for toll collection!
10. Naneghat also serves as an alternate route to trek Jivdhan, Hadsar and Chavand. Jivdhan is the closest to Naneghat, where others are preferred treks via Junnar.
11. Naneghat has an amazing place to camp and is also generally a good place to start camping as it is very safe and poses minimal risks. The place we camped, had cliffs on three sides and an amazing view. It is situated to the right after you cross the Naneghat pass. Inform the villagers as not to anger them.

Pictures:

The entrance, a.k.a. Naneghat phata.

The famous Naneghat electric towers.

The rock path towards the end.

The cave.

The pass, i.e. Naneghat!

Where we camped once, amazing spot.

The sign that declares the start to the trek.

The road from Vaishakhare towards Naneghat phata.

The pass as seen from below.